Completed in 80AD, this huge arena was designed to hold 50,000 spectators. It originally had a retractable canopy, too, putting many of our modern stadiums to shame. That has gone but what remains is still breathtaking. You can stay in the Eternal City, of course, and enjoy its nightlife. But with little Lydia by our side, we opted for the peace and safety of a countryside holiday park, and the comforts of its chalets. As we emerged from the Colosseum's shadow, and pondered all the bloody deeds that had been done there, a spot of tranquillity seemed especially alluring.

So back we headed, via a glass of wine and a pizza at a café with lovely views of the II Vittoriano monument in the Piazza Venezia, better known as the Wedding Cake, due to its many levels and white marble. Tired form our exertions and anxious to escape the heat with our sleepy daughter, the beautiful pool at our resort was calling us. And as soon as she saw the rippling blue water, Lydia woke up. We took her to the children's pool, with its padded floor and water fountains disguised as clowns, where she basked happily in the warmth of the water.

That evening, for once, was not a time to cook and eat on our own veranda. Instead we booked at the on-site family-friendly restaurant, where we were entertained by chefs spinning pizza bases as we waited for our food. It was well worth the wait too - simple but delicious treats such as spaghetti bolognese, and fish straight from the nearby coast.

As we sat outside the restaurant that evening, enjoying the music and watching the children dancing and playing, my thoughts strayed back to the very different sights and sounds that drew crowds to the Colosseum, a place that brings history to life like nowhere else I've ever been.

Thomson Al Fresco (0871 231 3292, www.thomsonalfresco.co.uk) offers seven nights in August at I Pini camping village for £797, sleeping up to six people with flights from £99 per person.